Night markets are where a lot of people fall for Taiwan: rows of stalls under bright signs, the smell of frying chicken and something stronger, and a queue at every place worth eating. They're also one of the best places to use your first Mandarin, because ordering is short, the stall owners have heard every kind of accent, and you can point at what you want.
This guide covers the classics and the handful of phrases that get you through any stall.
The four phrases that cover most stalls
Point, say 這個 and hold up a finger, and you've ordered. For two, say 兩個 (liǎng ge): when you're counting things, two is 兩, not 二. Prices are usually written on a board or a sign; if they aren't, 多少錢 gets you the number. Many stalls only take cash, so carry small notes and coins.
雞排: the giant fried chicken
- 雞排jīpái · ㄐㄧ ㄆㄞˊFried chicken cutlet
A 雞排 is a whole chicken breast, flattened, seasoned and fried, often bigger than your face, and handed over in a paper bag. Some stalls will ask if you want it cut into pieces, 要切嗎? (yào qiē ma?). Answer 要 (yào, yes) or 不用 (búyòng, no need). You'll often be asked about spice too; see below.
鹽酥雞: pick your own fried snacks
- 鹽酥雞yánsūjī · ㄧㄢˊ ㄙㄨ ㄐㄧTaiwanese popcorn chicken
At a 鹽酥雞 stall, the food is laid out raw or par-cooked: chicken pieces, squid, tofu, mushrooms, green beans, sweet potato and more. You take a basket and tongs, pick what you want, and hand it over. They fry it all, toss it with salt and pepper, and usually ask about two things: spice and basil (九層塔, jiǔcéngtǎ, fried crisp with the chicken). If you're not sure, say 好 (hǎo, okay) and enjoy it the way it comes.
臭豆腐: stinky tofu
- 臭豆腐chòudòufu · ㄔㄡˋ ㄉㄡˋ ˙ㄈㄨStinky tofu
You'll smell it before you see it. 臭豆腐 is fermented tofu, and the strong smell is part of it. The fried kind comes crisp outside and soft inside, with a sweet-sour pickled cabbage, 泡菜 (pàocài), and a dab of chili. There's also a spicy stewed version, 麻辣臭豆腐 (málà chòudòufu), cooked in a numbing chili broth. If you're unsure, try the fried one first: it's milder than it smells.
珍珠奶茶: bubble tea for the walk
Bubble tea comes from Taiwan, and you'll be asked for your sugar and ice level almost every time. 半糖少冰 (half sugar, less ice) is a safe answer. Our bubble tea guide has every level and what the staff will ask.
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Spicy or not
At fried-food stalls you'll often hear 要辣嗎? (yào là ma?), "do you want it spicy?". Answer 要 for yes or 不辣 for no. Some stalls offer levels: 小辣 (xiǎo là, a little), 中辣 (zhōng là, medium) and 大辣 (dà là, very). If you like heat, start at 小辣; a stall's "a little" can be plenty.
To go or to eat here
Most night market food is eaten standing or walking, but some stalls have a few stools, and they may ask 內用還是外帶? (nèiyòng háishì wàidài?), "eat here or take away?". Answer 內用 (nèiyòng) to sit, or 外帶 (wàidài) to take it with you.
Reading the board
Many stalls have a menu board, and a few words on it come up again and again. 份 (fèn) means a portion or serving: 一份 (yí fèn) is one serving. 大 (dà) and 小 (xiǎo) are large and small. 元 (yuán) after a number is the price in Taiwan dollars, though people say 塊 (kuài) out loud: a board that says 60元 is 六十塊 (liùshí kuài). If a stall sells only one thing in two sizes, 大的 (dà de, the big one) or 小的 (xiǎo de, the small one) is all you need.
More to try
Every market has its own favourites, but these turn up at most of them:
- 胡椒餅 (hújiāobǐng): a pepper pork bun baked against the inside of a clay oven. Careful, the filling is very hot.
- 大腸包小腸 (dàcháng bāo xiǎocháng): "big sausage wraps small sausage", a grilled Taiwanese pork sausage tucked inside a sticky-rice sausage like a hot dog.
- 地瓜球 (dìguā qiú): fried sweet potato balls, crisp outside and chewy inside.
- 蚵仔煎: oyster omelette with a sweet-savoury sauce. You'll usually hear it called by its Taiwanese Hokkien name, roughly "ô-á-tsian", rather than a Mandarin reading.
You don't need the names to order: point, say 這個, and you'll get it. But knowing what you're looking at makes it easier to choose, and stall owners notice when you read their sign.
A whole order, start to finish
| Who | Mandarin | English |
|---|---|---|
| You | 你好，這個一個。 | Hi, one of these. |
| Stall | 要辣嗎？ | Spicy? |
| You | 不辣。多少錢？ | Not spicy. How much is it? |
| Stall | 要袋子嗎？ | Do you want a bag? |
| You | 不用，謝謝。 | No thanks. |
That's the whole exchange, and it works at almost every stall.
A few things that help
- Follow the queue. A line of locals is the best review a stall can get.
- Watch the person ahead of you. You'll see whether people pay first or after, pick their own items or order from a menu.
- Bring cash and a small bag for rubbish. Bins can be hard to find in the middle of a busy market.
- Say it out loud, even if it's imperfect. Stall owners are used to visitors and most will smile at the effort. A clear 這個 and a pointed finger beat a long silence.
Say it to the stall owner as you walk away. It costs nothing and it's usually true.
Questions
How do you order food at a Taiwan night market?
Point at what you want, say 這個 (zhège, "this one") and the number, and ask 多少錢 (duōshǎo qián, "how much?") if the price isn't shown.
How do you say "not spicy" in Mandarin?
不辣 (bú là). If a stall asks 要辣嗎?, answer 不辣 for no spice, or 小辣 (xiǎo là) for a little.
What is 鹽酥雞?
Taiwanese popcorn chicken: bite-sized fried chicken with salt, pepper and often fried basil. At most stalls you pick other items to be fried with it too.
Do night markets in Taiwan take cards?
Some stalls take mobile payments, but many only take cash. Bring small notes and coins.
What does 外帶 mean?
外帶 (wàidài) means to take away. 內用 (nèiyòng) means to eat in.
Keep reading
- Numbers in Mandarin: counting, prices and money in TaiwanChinese numbers the Taiwan way: count from 一 to 萬, pick 兩 or 二, use measure words like 個 and 杯, and say prices with 元, 塊 and 多少錢.
- Survival Mandarin for your first trip to Taiwan: 30 phrases30 Mandarin phrases for a first trip to Taiwan: greetings, getting help, the guesthouse, food, the MRT and money, with zhuyin, pinyin and Lin's voice.
- How to say hello in Mandarin, beyond ni hao你好 always works, but Taiwan also says 哈囉, 嗨 and 早安. The everyday ways to say hello in Mandarin Chinese, and what to say back, with audio.
